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2019 India Pilgrimage Trip

Day 1 – Departure for India

The time has come to set off for this inaugural pilgrimage organised by 1BUDDHISM and led by Venerable Hong Bok. We had close to 40 participants (incl 3 bikkuni masters) from Singappre, Malaysia, China, and Japan.

With Ven Hong Bok on board, one can be assured that the trip was more than just tracing the Buddha’s footsteps. Venerable gave teachings wherever and whenever he found the opportunity – at temple grounds and on the bus too, so that no time was wasted. He constantly reminded us of the true meaning behind making a pilgrimage, which left us feeling more grateful than before, for Buddha’s compassion and virtues.

If it’s not time NOW to repay Buddha’s kindness by diligently practising what He has taught us, then when is the time? Hope you will benefit from watching this series of video too. Stay tuned for more.

Day 2 – SANKASIA

Our daily morning routine on the bus usually started with chanting the Shurangama Dharani followed by a briefing of the day’s itinerary in English by the Guide. Venerable would then give the Chinese version, and enriched it with supplementary information and teachings.

Sankasia was our 1st place of call. It was here that Buddha descended to Earth after preaching to his mother in Trayastrimsa Heaven. While the event is still very much celebrated by Buddhists around the world today, the physical traces of it is long erased by the passage of time. What remains at the site today are a small shrine and the ruins of an elephant pillar built by King Asoka. Reflect on impermanence!

The somewhat deserted site might look pathetic but its sanctity was not lost, especially when Venerable was sitting at the gate of the small shrine, giving us teachings. It was as if Buddha himself was right in front of us giving a sermon to a small assembly of disciples. It was such a powerful moment, to be feeling that you were in the presence of the Blessed One!

Day 3 – SRAVASTI

We arrived at Sravasti where Buddha spent the greater part (25 vassa~ rain retreat) of his teaching life. Here, we reflected on many of Buddha’s great teachings and virtues. In Jetavana Park, Buddha lived and delivered the majority of his teachings, including the infamous Shurangama Sutra, Amitabha Sutra and Diamond Sutra. At Miracle Hill, out of filial piety, Buddha ascended to Trayastrimsa Heaven to preach to his late mother, Queen Maya Devi, and expounded the Sutra of the Past Vows of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva. Concerned about the destiny of sentient beings after his Parinirvana and before Matrieya Buddha’s arrival, Buddha entrusted the care of sentient beings to Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva. Such was the Buddha’s great compassion!

The most revered site at Jetavana Park – the Gandhakuti – is said to be the Buddha’s dwelling spot in the monastery. No one should want to miss the chance of spending some time there to feel the presence of the Blessed One, make vows and request the Tathagata’s empowerment for all of one’s vows to be fulfilled in this very lifetime. We did the same.

Two nearby monuments – the Sudatta Stupa built on the foundation of Anathapindika’s residence, and the Angulimala Stupa – hold their own significance too. Sudatta (also known as Anathapindika) wanted so much for the Buddha to stay and teach in Sravasti that he paid for it with as many gold coins as were needed to cover the grounds of the Park. The value of his action lies not so much in the tremendous amount of wealth he parted with, but more in his utmost sincerity and devotion to the Buddha.

As for Angulimala, he was a serial killer who transformed himself after hearing the Buddha’s enlightening words, and ultimately became an Arahat. This incident then marked the great wisdom and compassion of the Buddha in the Buddhist history in skilfully converting a murderer to a sage of an Arhat. Regardless of how bad you might be in the past, as long as you have faith in the Buddha, Dhamma and Sangha, are willing to receive the guidance and teaching, you equally share the chance of being liberated for Buddhahood. We are unlike Angulimala. However, by following the Buddha’s teachings, are we not transforming ourselves too? Yes, we are, for the better and for the ultimate enlightenment!

Day 4 – LUMBINI

We crossed the border to Nepal to visit Buddha’s birthplace in Lumbhini, once the capital of the Sakya Kingdom in ancient India and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was here in the Sala forest that Queen Mayadevi, Buddha’s mother, gave birth to Prince Siddhartha some 2,500 years ago. Today, the Mayadevi Temple, stands at the exact spot of the Buddha’s birthplace.

If you visit this holy site, you still can see the footprint of Prince Siddhartha at the first moment he stepped on earth. The footprint is well-preserved by the management. It will be a very precious experience to see this to have a feel of the very moment the Buddha was born. (Unfortunately, we do not have any images to share with you as photo/video-taking inside the temple is strictly prohibited). It was dusk when we arrived in Lumbhini, and by the time we finished viewing the birth location, it was nightfall. But that did not deter us from catching a short meditation on the grounds of this very serene and blissful place. Indeed, why care about the darkness when the inherent nature in us is luminous?!

What do we see as the message of the Buddha being born into this world?

When, as a prince, the Buddha gave up everything to search for the TRUTH to end all sufferings.
With the TRUTH He found, He gave us the road-map to liberation.

Day 5 – KUSHINAGAR

Kushinagar is the Buddha’s chosen final ‘resting place’ for His Parinirvana. Highlight of the day was our visit to Mahaparinirvana Temple which houses the huge reclining Buddha statue.

Venerable led us in laying the robes over the Buddha’s reclining statue – a simple but solemn ceremony. Watching the robe make its way gently from the Buddha’s feet to the neck evoked a feeling of a great loss of a loved one; it was like placing a blanket on the body of one’s beloved parent.

This soon gave way to a sense of immense gratitude when we began chanting the Śūraṅgama Dharani, thanking the Buddha for giving us this powerful King of Mantras.

Venerable Master Xuan Hua once said – “As long as a single person can recite the Śūraṅgama Mantra, the world cannot be destroyed, nor can Buddhism.” The experience of chanting it at such close range of the Blessed One’s “physical” presence was just indescribable. Come and experience it for yourself!

Two other historical holy sites there were the Ramabhar Stupa (where the Blessed one’s body was cremated, and the remains divided into 8 parts for distribution) and the Matha Kuar Shrine (where Buddha took his last drink of water from a nearby river while on the way to Kushinagar).

What was the Buddha’s message to us? By entering into Parinirvana, the Buddha manifested impermanence, with these last words to his disciples – “Listen, Bhikkhus, I say this: all conditioned things are subject to decay, strive with diligence for your liberation.”. Unlike the Buddha who had predicted his passing away 3 months ahead of time, we don’t know when impermanence strikes. All the more we should take heed of the Buddha’s advice and cultivate diligently with a sense of urgency!

Aniccā vata saṅkhārā
Uppāda vaya dhamminō
Uppajjitvā nirujjhanti
Tesaṃ vūpa samō sukhō (DN16, SN6.15)
[Impermanent, indeed, all formations are;
Subject to arising (and perishing), all phenomena are;
When the arising factors have been ceased (by the Buddha),
They all, then, are of equally bliss……]
(Verse uttered by Heavenly King God Sakka right after the Buddha’s Parinirvana)
(Translated by Bhikkhu Hong Bok @ Vajirananda)

Day 6 – VASALI

Vashali is the World’s first Republic and holds great significance for the Buddhist community. It was here that Buddha (i) allowed females to be ordained as nuns to form the Bhilkhuni Sangha for the first time, (ii) delivered the Rattana Sutta, and spoke his last sermon, (iii) announced his impending Pari-nirvana; and (iiv) converted a proud courtesan to a nun. From here, Buddha set out for Kushinagar, his final resting place.

Two great stupas and a majestic monument are not to be missed:

1. The Ananda Stupa (with remains of Venerable Ananda buried within) is to commemorate Ven Ananda who played a vital role in establishing the Bikhunis’ Order. It was only after Ven Ananda’s plea to the Buddha that the latter agreed to allow women into the Sangha. Ven Ananda is also remembered for assisting the Buddha in purifying the city of Vashali when it was once plagued by famine and pestilence. The Rattana Sutta was delivered by the Buddha in connection with this event. (Perhaps, amid the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic, we should practise this Sutta more diligently.)

2. Next to it is the Asoka Pillar standing tall with a majestic lion head on its crest and looking in the direction of Kushinagar, as if paying tribute to the Buddha at his final resting place.

3. The Relics stupa in Lichhivi which once housed one/eighth portion of the Buddha’s relics given to the Lichhivi Kingdom. King Ashoka later dug up the relics and subdivided them for distribution to more places. What remains now at the site is the excavated stupa without the relics which are now kept in the Patma Museum.

Day 7 – RAGJIR

Rajgir is a place of many revered sites significant to Buddhists, eg Vulture Peak, Bamboo Grove, Nalanda University, location for the First Buddhist Council. Sutras like “the Contemplation of Infinite Light”, “Lotus Sutra” were delivered here too.

Vulture Peak is said to be the Buddha’s favourite retreat place. Anyone making his way to the peak would in fact be walking in the Buddha’s steps, passing by caves which the Buddha and his disciples had meditated in, as well as the spot where the Buddha was injured by a stone hurled at him by Devadatta.

The panoramic view from atop Vulture Peak was simply awesome with an indescribable sanctity about it. Given the small plateau area, we had to cramp into a small corner for our chanting and meditation. But imagine during the Buddha’s time, a huge assembly of monks, nuns, deities and Bodhisattvas were gathered here in what is known as the “Meeting at the Sacred Mountain” to listen to the Buddha delivering the Lotus Sutra. The scene must have been amazing! Since we did not have the fortune to be at that sacred meeting, we could only vow to be at the next one when it is convened.

Bamboo Grove was actually the Royal garden of King Bimbisara. It was offered by King Bimbisara to the Buddha and his disciples on Buddha’s return after attaining enlightenment at Bodhgaya, as a place of the first monastery for the Buddhist Sangha Community.

Ruins of Nalanda University – a highly revered ancient monastery and one of the earliest universities in the world (founded in the 5th century) for the learning of not only Buddhism, but also Hinduism and Janism. Many renowned scholars had studied there. A more familiar name to us is Venerable Xuánzhuàng from the Tang Dynasty in China who had spent 17 years to and fro India in search of the Dharma. He returned to China (Tang Dynasty) with numerous Buddhist texts, which he later translated into Chinese with the patron from the Emperor – Tang Tai Zong (2nd Emperor of Tang Dynasty), the most notable being the Heart Sutra. Compared to the hardship that Venerable Xuánzhuàng had to endure in search of the Dharma, we are so lucky to be able to access the Buddha’s teachings at the click of a button. Let’s cherish and practise the Dharma diligently.

A very touching moment emerged as we were leaving the grounds of the ancient university, which was captured in the video. As Venerable Hong Bok was walking out from the gate, a handicapped boy (beggar) approached him for money. Upon analysis, Venerable found that the boy had become a beggar and handicap because of the fact that he did not cultivate dana (giving) in his past life. Immediately (unprepared), Venerable took out a small symbolic alms bowl and gave the boy a chance to make an offering to the Triple Gems. The boy then understood Venerable’s intention, and immediately offered all his takings to Venerable who, out of compassion, accepted the offering and blessed him and others nearby. Tears of gratitude rolled down the boy’s cheeks as he felt the loving-kindness from Venerable blessing him. May his act of generosity towards the Triple Gems free him from poverty and suffering. Venerable’s acceptance of the offering was a display of equanimity as taught by the Buddha. The boy’s letting go of his possessions unreservedly was an inspiration to us all.

May all sentient beings leave poverty and sufferings!
May all sentient beings gain prosperity and happiness!
Sukhi Hontu!

Day 8 – WAT THAI BODHGAYA/DANA/DUNGESWARI CAVE TEMPLE

On this trip, besides the usual site-visiting, we visited a few monasteries to practise dānapāramitā (the perfection of generosity), much thanks to advance arrangements by the organising committee. All in, we visited a Vietnamese nunnery cum orphanage (while in Vasali), Wat Thai Bodhgaya built by the King of Thailand in 1957 to commemorate 2500 years of the founding of Buddhism, a Sri Lankan monastery where we did a Maha Sanghika dana for about 60 monks, and a Bangladeshi monastery. Grateful to Venerable Hong Bok for initiating the Maha Sanghika dana event to give us the opportunity to make merits.

Back to sight-seeing. We visited the Dungeshwari Caves, also known as Mahakala Caves, located 12 km north east of Bodhgaya. The Buddha had meditated there in extreme ascetism for 6 years, starving himself almost to the verge of death. After accepting food from a milkmaid one day, the Buddha realised that the way to enlightenment was through the Middle Path. He then ended his ascetic practice and proceeded on to his eventual enlightenment at Bodhgaya.

Day 9 – GANGES RIVER

We were up in the early hours of the morning, and headed to where the locals go to be cleansed and blessed. Yes, it was the Ganges River (Ganga in Sanskrit), the sacred river to the Hindus. This is India’s longest river of over 2,700km in length, originating from the Himalayan Mountains and emptying into the Bay of Bengal. It is no wonder then that whenever the Buddha wanted to convey about something so vast that was incalculable, he used the phrase “as numerous as the sands in the Ganges River”.

It was still relatively quiet and peaceful when we arrived in the pre-dawn hours to catch the sunrise. A cruise down the river is a must-do for all tourists there, as it offers the best way to see the beautiful sunrise, and take in the colourful sights of the buildings lining the river bank and the buzz of activities going on at the Ghats (the steps that lead down to the river). After the initial calmness and tranquility, we were also buzzing with activities of our own on the boat – releasing lit candles into the river, chanting mantras, liberating lives, and even feeding the sea gulls – all done with a view to seeking forgiveness, blessings and liberation for ALL sentient beings.

By the time we got back to the shore, the place had come alive, with the locals up and about their daily activities, while more tourists and pilgrims had arrived to have their senses bombarded with sights, sounds and smells. This looks like a great place to test one’s samadhi power!

Day 10 – MAHABODHI TEMPLE

For Buddhists around the world, there is nothing more meaningful and unique than having the opportunity to visit and even meditate in the same place where the Buddha became enlightened.

Such opportunity for us to set foot on the grounds of the Mahabodhi Temple finally arrived! Made a UNESCO World heritage site in 2002, the temple marks the spot of the seat of enlightenment of the Buddha some 2,600 years ago. Buddhist practitioners from various parts of the world gather here every day to pay homage to the Buddha and do their cultivation. While they may differ in terms of lineages, attire, practices and rituals, all blend harmoniously due to their united love for the Buddha, his qualities and teachings. It was a perfect display of peace and respect for one another.

Our group, led by Venerable Hong Bok, also blended in with our Śūraṅgama mantra chanting, meditation, circumambulation, and lamp-offering. Thanks to the organising committee, we had about 2 days of time at the temple grounds, including a free-and-easy afternoon to do our own individual practices, be it meditation, prostration, chanting or even going around from monk to monk to dana food, medical supplies, or angpows. But even that might not be sufficient for some people who, even as they were leaving, would be wondering how soon they could return for another visit. Were you one of them?

Day 11 – SARNATH